Prague's Climate
The people of Prague have their theories about the climate of
their country; they maintain that it is governed by certain rules
that are made to apply to Central Europe generally. Thus they
will tell you that the winter is severe, that ice and snow keep
the country bound for several months at a time, that spring comes
swiftly but gently with the melting of the snow and the gradual
breaking up of the ice-floes on the river, that then a fine summer
follows, a summer hot indeed but tempered by cool breezes from
the north and showers from south and west; then through a glorious
autumn all russet and gold on a background of hazy blue mountains,
back to a winter as in the Christmas carol about Good King Wenceslas
All this is theory; in reality the weather here, as elsewhere,
is not to be trusted, though, indeed, it is not as fickle as that
of our own dear country. Still, the people cling to their theory
about the climate of the country, and if perchance the theory
does not fit, there is always an "oldest inhabitant"
handy to declare the weather quite exceptional. Why is it that
the oldest inhabitant is invariably the greatest local liar? Is
it simply a matter of long life and ripe experience?
Whatever the climate may be, whatever vagaries the weather may
indulge in, the view from my terrace is always lovely, its subtle
beauty ever new.
If I were called upon to say which season shows ancient Prague
at her best, I would say the spring time. Then the orchards on
the slopes are arrayed in virgin white of pear and cherry blossom,
with here and there a blush from apple-trees and a faint glimmer
of delicate green against cool grey of stone walls showing among
the purples of trunks and branches warming into new life under
the fitful rays of April sunshine. The sunshine draws out colour
from soaring spires or copper domes of churches and from the quaint
towers and pinnacles of old Prague's former defences against enemies
that came like storm clouds from out of the west or over the giant
mountains to northward.
A passing cloud throws into the shade the middle ground of grouped
and red-tiled roofs overtopped by some stately church, and the
terraced gardens that descend into the harmonies of deep reds
and greyish purples which is the dominant note in the colour scheme
of the "Mala Strana," the small side of Prague on the
left bank of the river. Far beyond are the encircling heights—some
wooded, others under cultivation; cloud shadows pass over them
like ghosts of the tragic events that made up the history of Bohemia
and its capital. But the sunshine wins over the clouds and draws
out the strength and glory of Golden Prague.
Summer and autumn bring fulfilment of spring's promise of plenty,
with fruit in abundance. Autumn lingers in red and yellow motley,
stoutly resisting winter's attack until boisterous winds from
east and north send the last leaves shivering to the ground and
spread out the city's winter garb. Then Prague assumes a severer
aspect; reds and warm greys have vanished, castle, churches, palaces
stand out in marked relief, their features accentuated by piled-up
snow on roof and gallery and flying buttress. And seen from my
terrace, Prague under snow is very beautiful.
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